National Geographic 2016年第05期.pdf

OFFICIAL JOURNAL OF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETYA male elk surveys his winter domain,the 24,700-acre National Elk Refuge near Jackson,Wyoming.PHOTO:CHARLIE HAMILTON JAMESOn the Cover The central paintinga birds-eye view of Yellowstone from the northwas created for the National Park Service by noted Austrian panoramist Heinrich Berann(1915-1999).Art by Jordan MetcalfCorrections and Clarifications Go to 2016 vol.229 no.5PART ONEThe Paradox of the ParkWhat wilderness means to peopleand how it is managedhas steadily changed since Yellowstone National Park was founded.70It All Starts With Heat82For the Benefit and Enjoyment of the PeoplePART TWOInto the BackcountryYellowstone has become a natural laboratory for tracing the deli-cate web of relationships that keep an ecosystem alive and healthy.108The Carnivore Comeback124Tracking the Wildlife HighwaysPART THREELiving With the WildYellowstones wildlife is adapting to its changing realities.Now peo-ple must adapt as well if the park is to remain untamedand intact.148The Dance of the Bison and Elk158Land of the PeopleEPILOGUE The View From the BeginningSpecial Poster:Yellowstone Elk Migrations,Supervolcano5492132170special issueAmericas Wild IdeaYELLOWSTONEBy David QuammenPrincipal photography by Michael Nichols|David Guttenfelder|Charlie Hamilton James|Erika Larsen|Joe Riis30PHOTO:LOUISE JOHNSPhotographer Louise Johns captured the silhouettes of(from left)her father,Chris Johns;herself;and a ranch hand riding through the Centennial Valley of Montana.One crisp June morning in Montanas Big Sky country,I rode on horseback through the Centennial Valley with Bryan Ulring,manager of the J Bar L Ranch,a working cattle operation 45 miles west of Yellowstone National Park.The valley,which looks much as it did several hundred years ago when Native American hunters chased after herds of bison,is part of the migratory route for wildlife in the northern Rockies.As we rode,I asked Ulring to help me imagine the landscape as it might have looked on a day like this 200 years ago.There are bisonhundreds,perhaps thousands,moving in to graze on the tall,rough grass emerging from melting snow.Elk herds follow,eating the tender shoots.The hillsides are covered with mule deer and pronghorn browsing on sagebrush.A pack of wolves emerges from the shadows.Most of the bison escape them,but the wolves chase and pull down a straggler.After the wolves have eaten their fill,ravens and eagles settle on the carcass to scavenge the remains.The air is full of sounds and smells.It is a primal picture of abundance that,then and now,depends on the interconnectedness of the 22.6 million acres of land that make up the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.We know about this interrelationhow Yellowstone National Park is part of a larger entity that encompasses Grand Teton National Park and morebecause of the work of ecologist Arthur Middleton and other scientists who have studied this landscape and understand its intricacies and patterns.The contributions of scientists like Middleton and ranchers like Ulring were invaluable in shaping the issue you hold in your hands.Our Geographic team spent three years reporting,photographing,and creating this special edition.Its our way of commemorating the centennial of the National Park Service and of honoring Yellowstone,the worlds first national park.Its also our way of showing what we have to gain by preserving the grandeur of this unique ecosystem and what we have to lose by neglecting it.“Yellowstone retains more abundance than many places,”Middleton told me.“It still ofers us this ability to imagineand remember.”Our Abundant Heritage The Yellowstone IssueChris Johns,Executive Director,National Geographic Society Centers of ExcellenceGUEST EDITORtoday,tomorrow and never saying never75 YEARS2016 FCA US LLC.All Rights Reserved.Jeep is a registered trademark of FCA US LLC.The National Geographic Society is a global non-proit membership organization com-mitted to exploring and protecting our planet.EDITOR IN CHIEF Susan GoldbergDEPUTY EDITOR IN CHIEF:Jamie Shreeve.MANAGING EDITOR:David Brindley.EXECUTIVE EDITOR DIGITAL:Dan Gilgoff.DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY:Sarah Leen.EXECUTIVE EDITOR NEWS AND FEATURES:David Lindsey.CREATIVE DIRECTOR:Emmet SmithNEWS/FEATURES SHORT-FORM DIRECTOR:Patricia Edmonds.NEWS DIRECTOR:Laura Helmuth.DEPUTY NEWS DIRECTOR:Gabe Bullard.EDITORS:Marla Cone,Christine DellAmore,Erika Engelhaupt,Peter Gwin,John Hoeffel,Wendy Koch,Robert Kunzig,Oliver Payne.WRITERS:Jeremy Berlin,Eve Conant,Michael Greshko,Brian Clark Howard,Becky Little,Laura Parker,Kristin Romey,Rachel Hartigan Shea,Daniel Stone,Mark Strauss,Nina Strochlic,A.R.Williams,Catherine Zuckerman.CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:Robert Draper,Cynthia Gorney,David Quammen,Craig Welch.SPECIAL INVESTIGATIONS:Bryan Christy;Rachael Bale,Jani Actman.ADMINISTRATION:Natasha DalyPHOTOGRAPHY DEPUTY DIRECTORS:Ken Geiger,Whitney C.Johnson,Patrick Witty.YOUR SHOT DIRECTOR:Monica C.Corcoran.BUSINESS MANAGER:Jenny Trucano.SEN