ASTM_D_1908_-_89_scan.pdf

ASTM DI708 87 I 0757530 002358b b W N-3L-25 4&Designation:D 1908-9 AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTINO AND MATERIALS 1918 Race SI.,Philallphia,Pa.19103 Rsprinled Irom the Annual Book 01 MM Standards,Copyright ASTM II na1 listed in lhe current 60mbinrcl I n k.will appear in the MXI ediilon.Standard Test Method for Needle-Reaated Damage Que to Sewing in Woven Fabric This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1908;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of original adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parzathwes indicates the year of last reapproval.A superscript epsilon(0 indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1.Scope 1.1 This test method evaluates the damage caused by sewing machine needles when a specific sewn seam assembly is used for a woven fabric.1.2 The index of needle damage as determined by this test method is significant only for the fabric and sewn seams being evaluated using this test method.1.2.1 The index compiles the damage done by fusing,deflection,or severance of yarns in the fabric tested.1.3 The sewn seams to be indexed should be taken from either previously sewn articles or from sewn seams prepared in accordance with a prescribed seam assembly.1.4 The index produced by this test method can be used to determine proper needle selection for a particular fabric.1.5 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard.The values stated in inch-pound units are provided for information only.1.6 This standard may involve hazardoas materials,oper-ations,and equipment.This standard does not purport to address all o f the safety problems associated with its use.It is the responsibility o f the user o f this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability o f regulatory limitations prior to use.2.Referenced Documents 2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles2 D2724 Test Methods for Bonded,Fused,and Limited Apparel Fabrics3 2.2 Federal Standard:No.75 la Stitches,Seams and Stitchings4 2.3 AATCC Method:143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Prod-ucts After Repeated Home Laundering 3.Terminology 3.1 Definit ions:3.1.1 grin,v-in sewn seams,to stress a seam so that the 3.1.2 needle damage,n-in sewn fabrics,the partial or individual stitches can be seen.I This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee DI354 on Consumee Product Performance.Current edition approved June 30,1989.Published August 1989.Originally published as D 1908-61 T.Last previous edition D 1908-81.Anniial Book o f ASTM Standards.Vols 07.01 and 07.02.Annual Book o f ASThi Standards,Vol 07.01.Available from Government Printing Office,GSA,7th&D Streets,S.W.,Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists aad Colorists,Washington,DC 20407.P.O.Box 12215,Research Triangle Park,NC plete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.3 refirbish,v-as applied to textile products,to brighten or freshen up and restore to wearability or use by cleaning such as drycleaning,laundering or steam cleaning.3.1.4 seam allowance,n-in sewn fabrics,the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge.3.1.5 seam assembly,n-the composite structure ob-tained when fabric(s)are joined by means of a seam.3.1.5.1 Discussion-A sewn seam assembly may be de-scribed in terms of the fabric orientation,seam direction,seam type,stitch type,seam allowance,sewing thread tex ticket rnumber(s)and type(s),stitch density,stitch gage,and rows of stitching.3.1.6 seam damage,n-in sewn fabrics,any change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in a seam which reduces seam effciency.3.1.7 seam type,n-in sewn seams,an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.3.1.4.1 Discussion-Seam types are described in Fed.Std.No.751a.3.1.8 sewn seam,n-in sewn fabrics,a juncture at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics,are joined by sewing,usually near the edge.3.1.9 stitch,n-in sewn seams,the repeated unit formed by the sewing thread in the production of seams.3.1.10 stitch density,n-in sewn seams,the number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam,3.1.1 1 stitch gage,n-in sewn fabrics,the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.12 stitch type,n-in sewn seams,a numerical designa-tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread)in a specified stitch.3.1.12.1 Discussion-Stitch types are described in Fed.Std.No.751a.3.1.13 For definitions of other textile terms used in this method,rekr to Terminology D 123.4.Summary of Test Method 4.1 Seams taken from manufactured items already sewn or seams prepared in accordance with a prescribed