ASTM_D_204_-_02_2016.pdf

Designation:D20402(Reapproved 2016)Standard Test Methods forSewing Threads1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S.Department of Defense.1.Scope1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewingthreads of any fiber.1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended toevaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement ofsewing thread physical properties.These test methods do notaddress any other properties that may be important for thesatisfactory performance of sewing threads under particularend use conditions.1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-ing properties:SectionsColorfastness to Drycleaning73 83Colorfastness to Laundering62 72Colorfastness to Water Migration84 94Diameter43 50Length per Thread Holder34 42Shrinkage,Single Strand51 61Dry Heat58.1Boiling Water58.2Strength and Elongation15 21Single StrandConditioned19.1.1Single StrandWet19.1.2Loop Strength19.2Knot Strength19.3Twist22 27Twist Balance28 33Yarn Number7 14NOTE1For methods covering tests on prepared seams,refer to TestMethods D1683 and D3940.1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded asstandard;the values in English units are provided as informa-tion only and are not exact equivalents.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns,if any,associated with its use.It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1422 Test Method for Twist in Single Spun Yarns by theUntwist-Retwist MethodD1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-CountingD1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of WovenApparel FabricsD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile MaterialsD1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn(Yarn Num-ber)by the Skein MethodD2256 Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by theSingle-Strand MethodD2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for TestingD2724 Test Methods for Bonded,Fused,and LaminatedApparel FabricsD3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder ofSewing ThreadD3823 Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for SewingThreadsD3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength(Load)and Elon-gation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Stretch TextileFabrics(Withdrawn 1995)3D4848 Terminology Related to Force,Deformation andRelated Properties of TextilesD4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and FibersD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams2.2 AATCC Standards:Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic HomeLaundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics4Evaluation Procedure 1,Gray Scale for Color Change4Evaluation Procedure 3,Chromatic Transference Scale41These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns andFibers.Current edition approved Jan.1,2016.Published February 2016.Originallypublished as D204 24 T.Last previous edition approved in 2010 asD204 02(2010)1.DOI:10.1520/D0204-02R16.2For referenced ASTM standards,visit the ASTM website,www.astm.org,orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org.For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information,refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists,P.O.Box 12215,Research Triangle Park,NC 27709.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United States1 3.Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of thefollowing terms used in this standard elongation;force andloop-breaking force.3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of thefollowing terms used in this standard colorfastness;coveredyarn,greige thread,growth,sew,sewing force,sewing thread,tex,thread holder,ticket number,and yarn number.3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of otherterms used in this standard including the following;shrinkage,stitch,stitching,stitch type,and twist balance.4.Significance and Use4.1 Acceptance TestingThe test methods in Test MethodsD204 for the determination of the properties of sewing threadare considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-cial shipments of sewing thread,unless specified in theindividual test method.These test methods are the bestavailable and are use