ASTM_D_1683_-_D_1683M_-_11a.pdf

Designation:D1683/D1683M11aStandard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M;the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval.A superscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S.Department of Defense.1.Scope1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength inwoven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewnseams.NOTE1The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be usedto determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement ofsewn seam strength.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtainedfrom a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabricsamples using either a specific seam assembly(see Table 1),orproduction seam assemblies.1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force torupture,a minimum elongation,or both are required todetermine the sewn seam strength,seam slippage,or seamintegrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.NOTE2This test method is used in conjunction with Test MethodD5034,which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textilefabrics.Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture,slippage,orany combination thereof.Rupture can be further categorized as failure orfabric,or sewing thread,or seam slippage.1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-mance of a seam.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound unitsare to be regarded separately as standard.The values stated ineach system may not be exact equivalents;therefore,eachsystem shall be used independently of the other.Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in non-conformancewith the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns,if any,associated with its use.It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics(Grab Test)D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength inInflatable Restraint CushionsD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3.Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle damage,nin sewn fabrics,the partial orcomplete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needlepassing through a fabric during sewing.3.1.2 seam allowance,nin sewn fabrics,the distance fromthe edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.3 seam assembly,nthe composite structure obtainedwhen fabric(s)are joined by means of a seam.3.1.3.1 DiscussionA seam assembly may be described interms of fabric orientation,seam direction,seam type,stitchtype,seam allowance,sewing thread tex number(s)and type(s)stitch density,stitch gage,and rows of stitching.3.1.4 seam effciency,nin sewn fabrics,the ratio,ex-pressed as a percentage,of the breaking force required torupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.3.1.5 seam engineering,nin sewn fabrics,the proceduresused to select a specific combination of sewing thread,stitchtype,seam type,and stitch density to achieve the maximumsewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.3.1.6 seam failure,n in sewn fabrics,that point at whichan external force(1)ruptures the sewing thread,(2)rupturesthe fabric,(3)causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to thestitches,or(4)causes any combination of these unacceptableconditions.1This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1,2011.Published August 2011.Originallyapproved in 1990.Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D168304.Lastprevious edition approved in 2011 as D168311.DOI:10.1520/D1683_D1683M-11A.2For referenced ASTM standards,visit the ASTM website,www.astm.org,orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org.For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information,refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United States1 3.1.6.1 DiscussionDespite the lack of rupture,excessiveseam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency,or,result in an unsightly appearance thus creating seam failure.3.1.7 seam slippage,nin sewn fabrics,a mode of failure inproduction seams.3.1.7.1 DiscussionShown as a transverse ratio of junctionstrength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation offabric to the ratio of elongation at the junctio