ASTM_D_3990_-_12e1.pdf

Designation:D3990121Standard Terminology Relating toFabric Defects1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1NOTETerms from Test Method D7811 were added editorially in August 2013.1.Scope1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knitfabrics.Descriptions of the defects,illustrations,and relatedmaterial are given under the most frequently used terms;synonym(s)are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD7811 Test Method For Bow and Skew using a MeasuringTool3.Terminology3.1 Definitions:abrasion mark,nan area damaged by friction.(Syn.chafemark)apron markSee decating mark.baggy clothSee wavy cloth.baggy selvageSee slack selvage.balling upSee fuzz ball.barr,nan unintentional,repetitive visual pattern of continu-ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of wovenfabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric.(Comparewarp streak,mixed filling)DISCUSSIONThe term“barr”is sometimes used as a synonym for“warp streaks”in warp knit and woven fabrics.Barr can be caused byphysical,optical,or dye differences in the yarns,geometric differencesin the fabric structure,or by any combination of these differences.beaded selvageSee loopy selvage.biasSee skew.birdseye,nin knitted fabrics,an unintentional tuck stitch.blanket markSee sanforizing mark.blotch,nan offcolored area of any shape caused by grease oroil.(Syn.oil spot)bow,na fabric condition resulting when filling yarns orknitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular tothe selvages and form one or more arcs across the width offabric.(See also double bow)bow,doubleSee double bow.box markSee shuttle mark.break-outSee smash.broken end,nin woven fabrics,a void in the warp directiondue to yarn breakage.broken filament,nin multifilament yarn,breaks in one ormore filaments.(Syn.strip back,skin back)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved July 1,2012.Published August 2012.Originallyapproved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964.Redesignated D3990 in1981.Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3990 12.DOI:10.1520/D3990-12E01.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United States1 broken pick,n in woven fabrics,a discontinuity in the fillingdirection caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.broken selvageSee cut selvage.bruise,nin fabrics,an area that has been subjected to impactor pressure,that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.(Syn.pressure mark.)bunchSee slug.chafe markSee abrasion mark.clip mark,na visual deformation near the edge of a fabricparallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressureexerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame.(See alsopin mark.)coarse end,na larger than normal diameter warp end.(Syn.heavy end)(Compare fine end)coarse fillingSee coarse pick.coarse pick,n in woven fabrics,one or more picks of largerdiameter than the normal filling yarn in the fabric.(Syn.thickfilling)cockles,nin yarns,irregular thick,uneven,lumps.color bleeding,nthe loss of color from a dyed fabric whenimmersed in water,dry-cleaning solvent,or similar liquidmedium,with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.(Compare color staining.)color staining,nthe undesired pickup of color by a fabric:(1)when immersed in water,dry-cleaning solvent,or similarliquid medium,that contains dyestuffs or coloring materialnot intended for coloring the fabric,or(2)by direct contactwith other dyed material from which color is transferred bybleeding or sublimation.(Compare crocking,color bleed-ing)corded selvageSee loopy selvage.crack mark,nan open place causing a streak of variablelength approximately parallel to the length or width.(Syn.open place,thin spot)crease,na fabric defect evidenced by a break,line,or markgenerally caused by a sharp fold.(Syn.mill wrinkle)crease mark,na visible deformation left in a fabric after acrease has been incompletely removed during fabric process-ing.crocking,na transfer of color from the surface of a coloredfabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to anothersurface principally by rubbing action.(Compare color stain-ing)crowsfeet,nin fabrics,fine wrinkles of varying degrees ofintensity,size,and shape.DISCUSSIONCrowsfeet may occur during wet processing and onfinished goods after folding.curlSee kink.curled selvage,nself-descriptive.(Syn.rolled selvage,turned-over edge)cut pickSee broken pick.cut selvage,ncuts or breaks that occur