ASTM_D_3991_-_94_2012e1.pdf

Designation:D399194(Reapproved 2012)1Standard Specifications forFineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3991;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTEThe terminology section was updated in July 2012.1.Scope1.1 These specifications cover the classification,by finenessgrade,of wool or mohair that is in the grease,pulled,washed,or scoured state,or in the form of card sliver.1.2 These specifications are applicable also to assignment ofgrade for wool or mohair in spun materials or productsprocessed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on theworsted system which involves a combing process.NOTE1For fineness specifications for wool top,mohair top,andalpaca,refer to Specifications D3992 and D2252.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and OtherAnimalFibers by MicroprojectionD2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of AlpacaD3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or MohairTop and Assignment of GradeD4845 Terminology Relating to Wool2.2 Federal Standards:Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool,Section 31.03Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Wool,Section 31.2043Official Standards of the United States for Grades of GreaseMohair,Section 32.14Measurement Method for Determining Grade of GreaseMohair,Section 32.2044NOTE2A discussion on the development of grease mohair standardscan be found in the literature.5,63.Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to D13.13,refer to Termi-nology D4845.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:average fiber diameter,fineness,grade,mohair,wool.3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles,refer toTerminology D123.4.Requirements4.1 The grade of wool shall conform to the requirements ofTable 1.4.2 The grade of mohair shall conform to the requirementsof Table 2.5.Significance and Use5.1 These specifications are considered satisfactory for clas-sifying wool or mohair by grade and provide a basis foracceptance of commercial shipments.5.2 Grade determined by visual examination is a commontrade practice.In case of doubt or dispute,comparison of themeasured average fiber diameter and fiber diameter standarddeviation with the respective specification shall be used as thereferee procedure for assigning grade.5.3 This specification is not intended for application tomixed lots,that is,lots of wool or mohair consisting of fleecesof different grades that are to be segregated into smaller morehomogeneous lots before use.6.Test Method6.1 Test the material as directed in Test Method D2130.Measure at least the minimum number of fibers needed to1These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.Current edition approved July 1,2012.Published August 2012.Originallyapproved in 1981.Last previous edition approved in 2006 as D399194(2006).Replaces D419 and D3109.DOI:10.1520/D3991-94R12E01.2For referenced ASTM standards,visit the ASTM website,www.astm.org,orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org.For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information,refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Federal Register,Vol 30,No.161,Aug.20,1965,pp 1082910833.4Federal Register,Vol 36,No.129,July 3,1971,pp 1268112685.5Keller,H.R.,Ray,H.D.,Lineberry,C.T.,and Pohle,E.M.,“FinenessRelationship of Grease Mohair,Card Sliver,and Top,”Textile Research Journal,Vol42,No.2,February 1971.6ASTM Research Report No.D13 1012.A copy is available from ASTMHeadquarters,100 Barr Harbor Drive,West Conshohocken,PA 19428.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United States1 attain confidence limits of the mean within 60.4 m at aprobability level of 95%(see Annex A1 of Test MethodD2130).6.1.1 In case of dispute the microprojector procedure,TestMethod D2130,is specified as the referee method.7.Assignment of Grade7.1 Compare the observed average fiber diameter and stan-dard deviation in fiber diameter,determined as directed inSection 6,with the specifications for the various grades for thematerial being tested.7.1.1 WoolAssign the grade that corresponds to the aver-age fiber diameter and maximum standard deviation require-ments specified in Table 1.If the observed standard deviationexceeds the maximum specified for the grade to which theobserved average fiber diameter corresponds,assign to thewool the next coarser grade.Assignment of grade is illustratedby the following examples:7.1.1.1 Example 1Average fiber diameter,27.25 m;stan-dard deviation,6.72 m;assigned grade,56s.7.1.1.2 Example 2Average fiber diameter,