ASTM_D_4965_-_96_2002.pdf

Designation:D 4965 96(Reapproved 2002)Standard Terminology ofSeams and Seam Finishes Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4965;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon(e)indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1.Scope1.1 This terminology provides a uniform,easily understoodlanguage for the definitions and descriptions of seams andseam finishes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on aconventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily appli-cable to the apparel manufacturing industry.1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in thepreparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheetsfor home sewing.1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate ifequipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.4 For other terms associated with textiles,refer to Termi-nology D 123.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials2D 1353 Terminology of Basic Sewing Machine Stitches23.Terminology3.1 Definitions:back side,nin textile materials,the side of the material thatfaces innermost in the completed product.(Ant.face side,right side.Syn.wrong side.)bound seam-finish,nin home sewing,a seam finish inwhich another material is used to enclose the cut edges ofone or more seam allowances.(Compare Hong Kong seamfinish.)(See Fig.1.)DISCUSSIONA bound seam-finish is made by(1)enclosing the cutseam allowance edge(s)in another fabric and(2)machine stitchingthrough all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding.Material usedmay be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knitfabric such as tricot or net.If tape or binding is used,the wider fold sideof the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually;however,seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one,such as thearmscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish,nin home sewing,a seam finish inwhich the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edgestitched.(See Fig.2.)(Syn.turned and stitched seamfinish.)DISCUSSIONA clean-finish seam finish is made by(1)turning undereach cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm(18to14in.)and(2)stitching close to the folded edge.A stabilizing line ofstitching 3 to 6 mm from a curved cut edge will facilitate turning beforestitching close to the plex seam,nin home sewing,a seam made in two ormore steps.(Ant.plain seam.)DISCUSSIONComplex seams have one or more stitching lines as partof their construction and include double-welt seams,flat-felled seams,French seams,lapped seams,mock French seams,slot seams,tuckedseams,and welt seams.They do not include plain seams or seamfinishes or decorative additions to seams.double-welt seam,nin home sewing,a complex seamformed on the inside of the product,in which one trimmedseam allowance is enclosed and two rows of stitching arevisible on the face side.(Compare welt seam.Syn.mockflat-felled seam.)(See Fig.3.)DISCUSSIONA double-welt seam is made like a welt seam exceptthat it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the originalseam line,the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewnproduct and the wider of the seam allowances,and the row added nearthe original seam line.edge-stitched seam finish,nin home sewing,a seam finishin which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge of1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.Current edition approved Nov.10,1995 and February 10,1996.Published July1996.Originally published as D 4965 89a.Last previous edition D 4965 95.2Annual Book of ASTM Standards,Vol 07.01.FIG.1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric1Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959,United States.each seam allowance.(Compare zigzagged seam finish.)(See Fig.4.)DISCUSSIONAn edge-stitched seam finish is made by straightstitching approximately 3 to 6 mm(18to14in.)from each cut edge ofeach seam allowance.face side,nin textile materials,the side of the material thatis outermost in the completed product.(Ant.back side,wrong side.Syn.right side.)flat-felled seam,nin home sewing,a complex seam formedon the outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and tworows of machine stitching visible from the face side.(SeeFig.5(a)and(b).)DISCUSSIONA flat-felled seam is made by(1)stitching a basic seamwith the back sides together,(2)pressing both seam allowances to oneside,(3)trimming the under seam allowanc