ASTM_D_5646_-_13_2018.pdf

Designation:D564613(Reapproved 2018)Standard Terminology Relating toSeams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1.Scope1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewingmachines designed for home use and provides a uniform,easilyunderstood language for the definitions and descriptions ofseams and seam finishes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily con-sistent with those used in the apparel or home furnishingsmanufacturing industries.1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use inthe preparation of educational materials and pattern guidesheets for home sewing.1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition,a discus-sion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and anillustration of one or more possible stitch patterns.Thisterminology does not include stitches made by sergers,hemmers,or by attachments to the home sewing machines.1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced ona conventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropri-ate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.1.1.5 Section 3,Terminology,is categorized into twosubsections,specific to the two areas of specialization underthis document:Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns,if any,associated with its use.It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety,health,and environmental practices and deter-mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.1.3 This international standard was developed in accor-dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-ization established in the Decision on Principles for theDevelopment of International Standards,Guides and Recom-mendations issued by the World Trade Organization TechnicalBarriers to Trade(TBT)Committee.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams2.2 Federal Standard:3Fed.Std.751a,Stitches,Seams and Stitching3.TerminologyRELATING TO SEAMSback side,nin textile materials,the side of the material thatfaces innermost in the completed product.(Ant.face side,right side.Syn.wrong side.)bound seam-finish,nin home sewing,a seam finish in whichanother material is used to enclose the cut edges of one ormore seam allowances.(Compare Hong Kong seam finish.)(See Fig.1.)DISCUSSIONA bound seam-finish is made by(1)enclosing the cutseam allowance edge(s)in another fabric and(2)machine stitchingthrough all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding.Material usedmay be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knitfabric such as tricot or net.If tape or binding is used,the wider fold sideof the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually;however,seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one,such as thearmscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish,nin home sewing,a seam finish inwhich the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edgestitched.(See Fig.2.)(Syn.turned and stitched seamfinish.)DISCUSSIONA clean-finish seam finish is made by(1)turning undereach cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm(18to14in.)and(2)stitching close to the folded edge.A stabilizing line ofstitching 3 to 6 mm(18to14in.)from a curved cut edge will facilitateturning before stitching close to the plex seam,n in home sewing,a seam made in two ormore steps.(Ant.plain seam.)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1,2018.Published August 2018.Originallyapproved in 1994.Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D5646 13.DOI:10.1520/D5646-13R18.2For referenced ASTM standards,visit the ASTM website,www.astm.org,orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org.For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information,refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No.751a,Stitches,Seams and Stitching,General Services Administration,Washington,D.C.20407.Available from Stan-dardization Documents Order Desk,Bldg.4 Section D,700 Robbins Ave.,Philadelphia,PA 19111-5094,Attn:NPODS.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United StatesThis international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the