ASTM_D_7722_-_13.pdf

Designation:D772213Standard Terminology Relating toIndustrial Textile Stitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7722;the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or,in the case of revision,the year of last revision.A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.Asuperscript epsilon()indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1.Scope1.1 This terminology covers stitches and seams related toindustrial textiles.1.2 Section 3,Terminology,is categorized into twosubsections,specific to the two areas of specialization underthis document.1.2.1 Section 3.1 Relating to Seams.1.2.2 Section 3.2 Relating to Stitches.1.3 For other terms relating to textiles refer to TerminologyD123.2.Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1683/D1683M Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams ofWoven Apparel FabricsD1908 Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due toSewing in Woven Fabrics3D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used inHome SewingD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3.Terminology3.1 Definitions Relating to Seams:double-stitched seam-finish,na finish for the raw edges ofa plain seam,in which another row of machine stitching ismade through both seam allowances placed together.D1683/D1683M,D6193grin,vin sewn seams,to stress a seam so that the individualstitches can be seen.needle damage,nin sewn fabrics,the partial or completeyarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.DISCUSSIONThis can also be referred to as needle cuts.D1908-89seam,na line where two or more fabrics are joined,usuallynear the edge.(See also sewn seam.See TerminologyD5646 for glued seam,stapled seam,and thermally bondedseam.)D6193seam allowance,nin sewn fabrics,the distance from theedge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.D1683/D1683M,D6193seam assembly,nthe composite structure obtained whenfabric(s)are joined by means of a seam.D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIONA seam assembly may be described in terms of fabricorientation,seam direction,seam type,stitch type,seam allowance,sewing thread tex number(s)and type(s)stitch density,stitch gage,androws of stitching.D1683/D1683Mseam damage,n in sewn fabrics,an adverse change in thephysical condition of one or more of the components in aseam which would reduce the seam acceptability such asyarn slippage,needle damage,or fabric rupture.D6193seam efficiency,nin sewn fabrics,the ratio,expressed as apercentage,of the breaking force required to rupture a sewnseam to that required to rupture the fabric;seam strength tofabric strength.D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIONFor some constructions,yarn strength and stitchtypecan contribute to a higher seam efficiency value.D6193seam engineering,nin sewn fabrics,the procedures used toselect a specific combination of sewing thread,stitch type,seam type,and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewnseam strength for a particular fabric type.D1683/D1683Mseam failure,n in sewn fabrics,that point at which anexternal force(1)ruptures the sewing thread,(2)ruptures thefabric,(3)causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to thestitches,or(4)causes any combination of these unacceptableconditions.D1683/D1683MDISCUSSIONDespite the lack of rupture,excessive seam slippagewill either significantly reduce seam efficiency,or,result in an unsightlyappearance thus creating seam failure.D1683/D1683M1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1,2013.Published August 2013.Originallyapproved in 2011.Last previous edition approved in 2011 as D7722-11.DOI:10.1520/D7722-13.2For referenced ASTM standards,visit the ASTM website,www.astm.org,orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org.For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information,refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn.The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.Copyright ASTM International,100 Barr Harbor Drive,PO Box C700,West Conshohocken,PA 19428-2959.United States1 seam interaction,nin sewn fabrics,the net effect of therelationship between the combination of fabric,seam type,stitch type,and stitch density on seam efficiency.D1683/D1683Mseam slippage,nin sewn fabrics,a mode of failure inproduction seams;the displacement of the fabric yarnparallel and adjacent to the stitch line.D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIONShown as a transverse ratio of junction strength tofabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabric to the ratio ofelongation at the junction.Seam slippage occurs when fabric yarnsparallel to the stitch line move away from the seam.It is caused by theyarns in the fabric pulling out from the stitch line,and manifests itselfas a gaping opening.Any movement of the warp and weft yarns awayfrom a seam line under transverse